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URobert Parker vs Romanee-Conti vs Penfolds Grange

Isiphetho sabasunguli bezinto ezintsha sinzima, futhi isiphetho sabaphikisi sibi.

Ngenkathi "i-Wine Emperor" u-Robert Parker ephethe, isitayela esivamile emhlabeni wewayini kwakuwukukhiqiza iwayini elinemiphongolo ye-oki esindayo, ukunambitheka okunamandla, iphunga elimnandi elimnandi kanye notshwala obuphakeme obuthandwa nguParker. Ngenxa yokuthi lolu hlobo lwewayini luhambisana namanani ajwayelekile embonini yewayini, kulula kakhulu ukuwina imiklomelo emiklomelweni eyahlukene yewayini. I-Parker imele inkambiso yemboni yewayini, imele isitayela sewayini esicebile nesingenakuvinjelwa.

Lolu hlobo lwewayini lungase lube isitayela esiyintandokazi kaParker, ngakho leyo nkathi ibizwa ngokuthi "inkathi kaParker". UParker wayengumbusi wewayini wangempela ngaleso sikhathi. Wayenelungelo lokuphila nokufa phezu kwewayini. Uma nje ewuvula umlomo wakhe, wayengaliphakamisa ngokuqondile isithunzi sendawo yokwenza iwayini ezingeni eliphezulu. Isitayela ayesithandile kwakuyisitayela ababeqhudelana ngaso abakhi bewayini.

Kodwa kuhlale kukhona abantu abafuna ukuphikisa, abazobe bengeyona inkimbinkimbi, futhi abazobambelela esikweni elashiywa okhokho babo futhi bangawulandeli umkhuba, ngisho noma iwayini abalikhiqizayo lingenakuthengiswa ngentengo ephezulu; laba bantu yilabo “abafuna ukukhiqiza iwayini elimnandi ngokusuka ekujuleni kwezinhliziyo zabo”. Abanikazi be-Chateau, bangabasunguli kanye nabaphikisayo ngaphansi kwamanani ewayini amanje.

Abanye babo bangabanikazi bewayini abalandela isiko kuphela: Ngizokwenza lokho umkhulu akwenza. Isibonelo, i-Burgundy ibilokhu ikhiqiza iwayini elihle futhi eliyinkimbinkimbi. I-Romanee-Conti evamile imele iwayini elihle nelithambile. isitayela sevintage.

Abanye babo bangabanikazi bewayini abanesibindi nabaqambile, futhi abanganamatheli emfundisweni yangaphambilini: ngokwesibonelo, lapho benza iwayini, baphikelela ngokuthi bangasebenzisi imvubelo yezohwebo, kodwa basebenzise imvubelo yendabuko kuphela, ejwayeleke kwezinye izindawo ezidumile kakhulu zewayini. eRioja, eSpain; ngisho noma iwayini elinjalo liyoba nokunambitha "okungathandeki", kodwa ubunzima kanye nekhwalithi kuzokhuphukela ezingeni eliphakeme;

Futhi banezinselelo zemithetho yamanje, njengenkosi yewayini yase-Australia kanye nomdidiyeli we-Penfolds Grange, uMax Schubert. Ngemva kokubuyela e-Australia ngemva kokufunda amasu okwenza iwayini e-Bordeaux, wayekholelwa ngokuqinile ukuthi i-Syrah yase-Australia ingase futhi ithuthukise iphunga elimnandi lokuguga futhi ibonise izimfanelo ezingavamile ngemva kokuguga.

Lapho eqala ukwenza i-Grange, wathola ukugconwa okukhulu, ngisho nendawo yokukhiqiza iwayini yamyala ukuba ayeke ukupheka iGrange. Kodwa uSchubert wayekholelwa emandleni esikhathi. Akazange asilandele isinqumo sendawo yokwenza iwayini, kodwa wakhiqiza ngasese, waphisa, futhi waguga; bese enikela okusele ngesikhathi. Ngawo-1960, ekugcineni ngawo-1960, i-Grange yabonisa amandla amakhulu okuguga ewayini lase-Australia, futhi i-Australia nayo yayinenkosi yayo yewayini.

I-Grange imele isitayela sewayini esimelene nendabuko, esivukelayo, esingelona inkolelo-mbono.

Abantu bangase babashayele ihlombe abantu abasungula izinto ezintsha, kodwa bambalwa abantu ababakhokhelayo.

Ukuqamba okusha ewayinini kuyinkimbinkimbi. Isibonelo, indlela yokukha amagilebhisi ukukhetha ukukha ngesandla noma ukukha ngomshini? Isibonelo, indlela yokucindezela ijusi yamagilebhisi, ingabe icindezelwe ngeziqu noma icindezelwe kancane? Esinye isibonelo ukusetshenziswa kwemvubelo. Abantu abaningi bayavuma ukuthi imvubelo yomdabu (ayikho enye imvubelo engezwayo lapho kwenziwa iwayini, futhi imvubelo ethwelwe amagilebhisi ngokwawo ivunyelwe ukuvubela) ingabila amaphunga ayinkimbinkimbi futhi ashintshekayo, kodwa izindawo zokukhiqiza iwayini zinezidingo zokucindezela kwemakethe. Bekufanele kubhekwe imvubelo yezohwebo ezogcina isitayela se-winery esingaguquki.

Abantu abaningi bacabanga kuphela ngezinzuzo zokukhetha ngesandla, kodwa abafuni ukukukhokhela.

Ukuqhubekela phambili kancane, manje yisikhathi sangemva koParker (kubalwa kusukela ekuthatheni umhlalaphansi kuka-Parker), kanye nezinkampani eziningi zewayini seziqala ukukhombisa amasu abo angaphambilini okwenza iwayini. Ekugcineni, ingabe kufanele senze isitayela esigcwele umzimba futhi esingalawuleki "sethrendi" emakethe, noma kufanele senze isitayela sewayini esihle nesithambile, noma isitayela esisha nesicabangayo?

Isifunda sase-Oregon e-United States sanikeza impendulo. Benza iPinot Noir ebukekayo futhi ethambile njengeBurgundy eFrance; Hawke's Bay eNew Zealand inikeze impendulo. Baphinde benza i-Pinot Noir ngendlela enganakwa kakhulu eNew Zealand Isitayela se-Bordeaux sokukhula kokuqala.

I-"Classified Chateau" ka-Hawke's Bay, ngizobhala isihloko esikhethekile mayelana ne-New Zealand kamuva.

Eningizimu ye-European Pyrenees, indawo ebizwa ngokuthi iRioja, kukhona nendawo yokukhiqiza iwayini enikeze impendulo:

Iwayini laseSpain linikeza abantu umbono wokuthi sekusetshenziswe imiphongolo eminingi ye-oki. Uma izinyanga ezingu-6 zinganele, kuzoba yizinyanga ezingu-12, futhi uma izinyanga ezingu-12 zinganele, kuyoba yizinyanga ezingu-18, ngoba abantu bendawo bathanda iphunga elithuthukisiwe elilethwa ukuguga okwengeziwe.

Kodwa kukhona inkampani yewayini efuna ukwenqaba. Benze iwayini ongaliqonda uma uliphuza. Inephunga elimnandi lesithelo eliqhumayo, elinephunga elimnandi futhi elinothile kakhulu. Iwayini lendabuko.

Ihlukile ewayinini elibomvu elinezithelo ezilula zeNew World, kodwa ifana nesitayela esihlanzekile, esicebile nesihlaba umxhwele sase-New Zealand. Uma ngisebenzisa amagama amabili ukuyichaza, kungaba "msulwa", iphunga lihlanzekile kakhulu, futhi isiphetho sihlanzekile kakhulu.

Lena i-Rioja Tempranillo egcwele ukuhlubuka nokumangala.

Kuthathe iminyaka engu-20 i-New Zealand Wine Association ukuthi igcine inqume ulimi lwabo lokukhangisa, oluthi "Pure", okuyisitayela, ifilosofi yokwenza iwayini, kanye nesimo sengqondo sabo bonke abakhiqizi bewayini eNew Zealand. Ngicabanga ukuthi leli iwayini laseSpain "elimsulwa" elinesimo sengqondo saseNew Zealand.

Grange1

Isikhathi sokuthumela: May-24-2023